September is always the most anticipated time for fashion enthusiasts worldwide, marking the arrival of London Fashion Week (LFW). While this season might feel slightly different due to recent global events, the anticipation and excitement remain as high as ever.
When is London Fashion Week?
The official London Fashion Week schedule typically occurs twice a year, in September and February. Events usually kick off on Friday, running through the weekend and concluding on Tuesday.
However, this season, adjustments have been made to accommodate the evolving landscape. The Covid-19 pandemic has provided an opportunity for the fashion industry to reassess its future, taking a closer look at environmental impact and business structures from a diversity and inclusion perspective.
The British Fashion Council announced that London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2022 would take place from Friday, September 17th to Tuesday, September 21st. The schedule included both physical shows (adhering to strict Covid-19 safety protocols) and digital streaming events.
Highlights from London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2022 (SS22):
Erdem Spring/Summer 2022 collection at London Fashion Week
Erdem Spring/Summer 2022
Celebrating its 15th anniversary, Erdem Moralioglu drew inspiration from the wardrobes of two prominent figures of the Bloomsbury Set: Edith Sitwell and Ottoline Morrell. The collection was presented in the grand setting of the British Museum, enhancing the refinement of the designer’s garments. From a shimmering green floor-sweeping gown to floral sequined hats, everything felt vibrant and captivating.
Detailed design from the Erdem Spring/Summer 2022 collection
Close-up of a unique sequined hat from the Erdem SS22 collection
Richard Malone Spring/Summer 2022 collection runway look
Richard Malone Spring/Summer 2022
Richard Malone showcased his collection at the Victoria and Albert (V&A) Museum, where guests were seated amidst the Raphael cartoons. The event cleverly reflected the concept of “old” and “new” through clothing, exploring the tension between “good” and “bad” taste. Malone demonstrated that art is entirely subjective, depending on the viewer’s emotions, and the same holds true for fashion. The show also marked a collaboration between the designer and Mulberry, celebrating the brand’s 50th anniversary. Malone reinterpreted two of their most iconic bags—the Bayswater and Darley—injecting strong emotions from the inside out, creating a wonderfully modern effect. Both championed sustainability, using an eco-edition of the signature Scotchgrain material, crafted from innovative bio-synthetic materials.
Avant-garde design from Richard Malone Spring/Summer 2022
Richard Malone SS22 blending classic and modern elements
S.S. Daley Spring/Summer 2022 collection runway look
S.S. Daley Spring/Summer 2022
For his first solo catwalk collection, Steven Stokey Daley collaborated closely with members of the National Youth Theatre, an organization he joined after leaving secondary school in 2014. He used their stories about schooling, both private and state, to explore education and elitism in Britain. While not directly related to uniforms, the collection still carried a school vibe with rugby shorts and rowing blazers. The collection was a delightful journey through luxurious fabrics—Daley sources everything from the UK, frequently using deadstock and upholstery materials—taking the audience on a journey through school, sports fields, and dormitories.
School uniform inspired outfits in the S.S. Daley SS22 collection
Rejina Pyo Spring/Summer 2022 collection runway show
Rejina Pyo Spring/Summer 2022
Rejina Pyo transported the audience to a swimming pool, staging her show at the London Aquatics Centre with professional divers participating. The collection had a strong nostalgic feel, featuring collaged prints from Pyo’s travel photos in New York and Seoul. Above all, Pyo proved that she still understands what women want to wear, with gorgeous dresses, comfortable short suits, and elegant, wearable tailoring.
Rejina Pyo SS22 offering comfort and elegance
Roland Mouret Spring/Summer 2022
Roland Mouret decided to reimagine the ancient myth of Ulysses for Spring/Summer, told from the perspective of Hera—the female protagonist. He collaborated with Magaajyia Silberfeld—producer, co-director, and star of Terma, a short film made in conjunction with the collection. The clothing itself included easy-to-wear dresses, comfortable trousers, and shirts. The designer shared: “The collection integrates with every moment of a woman’s day, to instantly uplift, turning every moment into an opportunity to feel better about herself.”
Highly wearable design from the Roland Mouret SS22 collection
Labrum Spring/Summer 2022 collection runway look
Labrum Spring/Summer 2022
With styling by Ibrahim Kamara and extravagant stage design by Yinka Illori, Labrum brought a celebration of culture and creativity to Saturday. Embodying the brand’s mantra, “designed by an immigrant,” the collection honored Caribbean and African migrants to Britain in the 70s, blending music, politics, and community in a performance that “brought history to life.” Foday Dumbuya collaborated with Madam Wokie’s Rookie Sewing Skills Initiative—an organization providing practical skills and economic empowerment for women in Sierra Leone—to create tie-dye prints with saturated colors. He also revived hand-drawn prints depicting village life in Sierra Leone, as well as tribal mask motifs. “Labrum’s goal is not just to create work that represents the modern member of the African diaspora, but to tell the flowing story of those who came before them.”
Labrum SS22 celebrating heritage and culture
KNWLS Spring/Summer 2022 collection runway look
KNWLS Spring/Summer 2022
“There’s something about her that’s borderline rude,” the KNWLS Spring/Summer 2022 collection exuded pleasure with an earthy palette, leather bralettes, handkerchief hem skirts, and “engine oil” jeans paired with cowboy hats and marble jewelry from Marco Panconesi. The collection radiated confidence, sex appeal, and a “free spirit”: “And just when you have time to take it all in, she’s gone, leaving only a plume of dust behind.”
Bold and free-spirited style of KNWLS SS22
Feben Spring/Summer 2022 collection runway look
Feben Spring/Summer 2022
X-Pression, Feben’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection and debut scheduled show, was considered a “capsule wardrobe of celebration and protection in equal measure” after the human emotional rollercoaster of the past year and a half. This explains why wide-leg trousers made from bonded hair-extension wefts—wavy silhouettes resembling hair-extension packs sold in local Afro beauty shops—were combined with shirting fabric in hot pink silk dresses and harnesses. “It’s an invitation to wear what we get criticised for to see ourselves better; it’s a call for unbridled X-Pression.”
Feben SS22 – A statement of personal expression in fashion
Elleme Spring/Summer 2022 collection presentation
Elleme Spring/Summer 2022
Elleme’s Spring/Summer 2022 show, set in a sand quarry outside Paris, was perfect for its second ready-to-wear collection. The collection featured beach-inspired colors like coral pink and starfish orange, using 30% certified sustainable recycled and biodegradable materials. Natural bags took center stage, with a diverse range from slender shoulder bags to fabric and leather crossbodies.
Featured handbags in the Elleme SS22 collection
Molly Goddard Spring/Summer 2022 collection runway look
Molly Goddard Spring/Summer 2022
Molly Goddard had a particular idea when she began designing the Spring/Summer 2022 collection: children’s clothes. The designer was eight months pregnant and naturally thinking about what her child would wear. “I became fascinated with smock dresses, tracksuits and ballet pants. I like the repetition in this collection and the familiarity, it feels nostalgic and instinctive.”
Children's wear inspiration in the Molly Goddard SS22 collection
Palmer // Harding Spring/Summer 2022 collection runway look
Palmer // Harding Spring/Summer 2022
Palmer // Harding took on two themes of reflection and rebirth for Spring/Summer 2022, taking the audience on a journey addressing “the pain of new norms” as well as “the joy of recovery and discovery.” Hailed as their best collection to date, signature shirts transformed into beautiful dresses, sure to have women lining up to own them.
Palmer // Harding SS22 – Shirt and dress combination
Yuhan Wang Spring/Summer 2022 collection runway show
Yuhan Wang Spring/Summer 2022
When designing this collection, Yuhan Wang found herself thinking about the vulnerability of women around the world. Wang’s signature themes of femininity and strength this time drew inspiration from brave female figures like American ranchers and Victorian explorers. This was expressed through ruffled dresses and leather corsets, some paired with holster-printed sheaths. “The collection is about the power of women, also mentally. We are much stronger in our minds than many people.”
Yuhan Wang SS22 – Celebrating female empowerment
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2022 collection digital presentation
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2022
Vivienne Westwood once again revisited her archives, taking inspiration from the ‘Tied to the Mast’ Spring/Summer 1998 collection. The lookbook featured Georgia May Jagger and Lily McMenamy, surrounded by various maritime objects. All the best elements from the original 23-year-old product were transformed to feel completely modern for the garments. Westwood is responsible for one of TikTok’s viral trends in recent years, proving that she consistently produces something timeless. More than ever, sustainability is key. 98% of the materials are low impact and non-toxic, with no virgin synthetics. All wool used comes from “regenerative agriculture” farms, focusing on soil health as well as the welfare of the sheep.
Vivienne Westwood SS22 – Timeless and sustainable fashion
Nensi Dojaka Spring/Summer 2022 collection runway look
Nensi Dojaka Spring/Summer 2022
This year’s LVMH Prize winner, Nensi Dojaka, entered her debut show with all the confidence. The collection marked a “femininity manifesto,” celebrating duality, with signature pieces balancing between soft yet structured, protected yet sensual. (“This season is a wardrobe for the new world,” the show notes stated).
Nensi Dojaka SS22 – A manifesto of modern femininity
Nicholas Daley Autumn/Winter 2021 collection digital film
Nicholas Daley Autumn/Winter 2021
Nicholas Daley’s dynamic short film, Forgotten Fury, brought his Autumn/Winter 2021 collection to the screen as part of the digital event. Daley himself practices karate, and the Pizco-directed film is an ode to Black martial arts traditions, featuring two taekwondo stars: Lutalo Muhammad and Christian Mcneish.
David Koma Spring/Summer 2022 collection runway show
David Koma Spring/Summer 2022
David Koma’s celebrity fans—Jennifer Lopez, Hailey Bieber, and Beyoncé—would have been at home at today’s show, set beneath the diving boards at Zaha Hadid’s Olympic Park Aquatics Centre. The cool, slightly damp atmosphere perfectly set the scene for models looking dripping wet, wearing outfits inspired by Annette Kellerman, the legendary synchronized swimmer.
David Koma SS22 – Aquatic inspired glamour
Source: Graziadaily.co.uk